My volume knob is possesed

Recently my volume knob seems to have a mind of it's own. When I spin it one way, the volume sometimes goes the correct way, sometimes goes the opposite way, and sometimes doesn't do anything at all. It also happens in the break out game in hijack. I have done extensive testing and determined it doesn't have anything to do with the speed at which I rotate. I tried different versions of the software with and without hijack with no change. Any ideas?

Greetings!

Is your volume knob slipping on the shaft (Mark2) or is it just that the volume rotary encoder is getting worn out? If it is the knob slipping, there is a replacement knob available through support. If the encoder is starting to wear out, various people have replaced them in the past - just search around on the board for one. Edit: Mark Lord has replacements, and probably a few others as well...

Can anyone comment on the difficulty and time spent on replacing this? I think my player is doing this and I am curious how replacing this has gone for different people.

I can't believe this isn't FAQed!

check this thread for details on the procedure.

Looks like the rotary encoder is the problem. It's not slipping because it feels tight and it's a Mark 2A. Replacement looks scary, but I don't think I have much of a choice (other than to just live with it).

Thanks for the help!

(oh, and I second the motion to FAQ this)

Okay, I'll FAQ it.

I hadn't done so yet because a) it's a real serious repair job with a very real chance of ruining the display board and/or VFD completely, and b) I believe that most of these problems could still be solved with even more aggressive debouncing in software.

Anyway, the FAQ entry is done.

Sweet. Thanks Tony. I think i'll attack mine this weekend... it's gotten to the point of going backwards half the time i turn it... the volume surprise has ceased to be amusing.

<Admin Note>
At Rob's request, I am deleting this message. He wishes to extend his apologies to anyone who was offended by the tone or content of the post.

How does one obtain a rotary encoder (MK2A version)? Does anyone on this side of the Atlantic (US) have any in stock? Approximate price?

Thanks,
Jeff

If someone posts part numbers and a source for ordering them, I'll put that information in the FAQ.

Hmmmmmmmmm.... Is it already in Lopan's part list?

is lopan's part list faqed?

according to stu:

It's an Alps product. It is probably part number EC11B15243BB or perhaps, EC11B15243BC. Good luck finding them. It won't be easy.

and Hugo

MkIIa is Alps, MkII is a Meggitt part available from Farnell.

These are Alps encoders with 30 detents and 15 pulses per rotation.

I believe the part number of the original or at least a suitable replacement to be EC11E15244C0 , but I can't find anyone who sells it. Mouser sells part number EC11E15244C0 which is exactly the same as the other part number except for travel which is 1.5mm instead of .5mm. You may still be able to get it to work though. You would have to stuff the shaft hole with 1mm of material to make clearance for travel.

Stu

Those are the standard profile part numbers I gave. After looking a bit more, it looks more likely to be a low profile part which is what the new part numbers I gave are. I don't think it's that critical what you choose as long as it fits. Mouser has a few you can try to see if they fit. I'm pretty sure something they have will work.

Stu

Thanks for the research, guys. I'm reluctant to FAQ the part number until someone tells me (a) they're sure it's exactly the same part, and (b) I can link to a place that sells it.

I'm not sure I want to FAQ the low profile version of the part until someone actually installs one and tells me it really does work with a 1mm shim.

I have a largish supply of MK2 encoders here, courtesy of Hugo -- 24 of them remaining in my bin. Anyone who wants one in North America can have one for US$5 to cover packing & postage.

Unfortunately, I didn't acquire many of the MK2A encoders, though, and no longer have enough of those to continue distributing them as spares.

The difference is that the MK2 encoders are designed for surface mounted installation, whereas the MK2A ones have thinner pins for through-hole installation. The latter also have slightly shorter, knotched, shafts where the button attaches.

So, anyone with a MK2 unit who wants a new encoder: paypal me ([email protected]) US$5 and give me a shipping address. For MK2A, you're outa luck for the moment, but I may see if I can get hold of another handful of those from Hugo.

Cheers

Mark,
Have you performed any encoder transplants? Are you in the business of repairing other's? Name you price? I have an encoder, but I am scared to do it.

Thanks,
-Doug

Hi, I can do the replacements no problem.

But, I'm in Canada, and Canada Customs gets very much in the way of the free flow of things in/out of the country, adding significantly to the cost of doing repairs (even for free) of stuff that has to be shipped here from out-of-country.

Cheers

We (Eutronix) do lots of this kind of work. If you'd like we can perform the transplant for you without any customs complications, as we are located in Louisiana.

Stu

Stu, can I link you from the Support section of the FAQ as a possible go-to-person for repairs?

What about you, Mark?

That would be great! We're actually planning to add a repair section to our website.

Thanks,
Stu

Done.

Further to this, I asked Hugo already about obtaining more encoders, and his reply was essentially that there are none. So nobody else should bother bugging Hugo / Rob / Empeg / SB / DNNA regarding them, please.

Cheers

Did anyone come up with the correct number for the MKIIA encoders? I looked at Mouser and did not find the exact number listed earlier in this thread. I really need to get an encoder. Going to full volume is not good on my speakers. Does anyone have these in stock anywhere else? How about something added to Hijack to change the debounce algorithm? Just a thought. Something needs to be done soon, since it seems that these encoders are starting to go sooner or later...
Thanks,
Jeff

Sorry, I copied the same part twice in my earlier post. The number I gave is the part number to the encoder I believe to be an exact match to the one in our players. The one that Mouser actually stocks is the same, with the exception of the pushbutton switch travel, is Alps part number EC11E15244B2. Give that a try.

Stu

just to clarify, and for future reference
are you saying that the rotary encoder for mk2a players is part # EC11E15244C0 from Mouser. or that, if its not, its close enough that the difference is irrelevant?

# EC11E15244C0 appears to be a perfect match for the OEM encoder but is NOT stocked by Mouser (or anyone else as far as I can tell). Mouser does carry the 1.5mm pushbutton version, part # EC11E15244B2, which adds 1.0mm of travel to the other model. This should also work provided you provide room for the extra travel.

Stu

this is probably a usesless link but its the only thing i could find

http://www.deltron-roxburgh.com/switch/alps/potentiometers/products.shtml

I've just fitted the Eutronix illuminated buttons kit to my MK2a. Now my volume knob is jumpy!

I very very occasionally used to experience a problem with the volume knob, but it was very rare.

I guess I could have fried something during the upgrade - I do have a proper ESD field station which was connected to me and to the soldering iron ground point. The iron was set to 500 degrees F. The illumination seems to work as expected and the knob has problems even with illumination turned off in Hijack (not easy to do now!). The knob problem is most noticeable in the Hijack menu.

I really hope it isn't the encoder - I superglued the knob board to the encoder

I'll try some switch contact cleaner if I can get the nozzle anywhere near an opening. Any other suggestions?

Quote:
I'll try some switch contact cleaner if I can get the nozzle anywhere near an opening. Any other suggestions?

First, don't ever use cyanoacrylate near anything with electronic contacts. That stuff puts off nasty fumes and seeps into every nook and cranny. I wouldn't be surprised if it were the cause of your problem.

The knob board does not need to be glued down for any reason that I can think of, but if you must do it, use a very tiny dab of hotmelt glue, in a place where it can be easily plucked off if need be.

Anyway, you might be down to replacing the encoder if the contact cleaner doesn't work. The trick is that there's no way to get the encoder off of there easily without destroying it in the process. It's either destroy the encoder, or rip up traces on the display board trying to desolder it. And guess which one of those is an irreplaceable part?