Power question/problem

I have install my Riocar in my 99 Jeep Wrangler Amp mounted in the trunk area. Here is my problem whenever I turn on the windshield wiper (only the first time or if I haven't turned it on for the last 5-10 minutes) my amp powers down for 3-5 seconds. I think this may be due to too much draw on the electrical system, does this seem right, or could it be a grounding issue. Any suggestions on what to check for would be greatly appreciated.

From what you've said it's not clear whether the amp is suffering from a momentary power interruption or whether the amp's on/off line (driven by the Riocar) is causing this.

If your windshield wipers have a bolted-to-the-chassis earth rather than a wired earth then I'd say it's more likely that the cause is related to the power feed somewhere. If they use a wired earth then the opposite doesn't necessarily apply

Where are you getting power and ground for the Riocar and the amp from?

On rack and pinion type wiper setups, any crud or muck in the axle boxes, axle shafts or on the rack itself can cause heavy current draw from a wiper motor. A high current draw through a tired/high impedance battery can cause a large system voltage drop. The signs are that the wipers are "lazy" getting going, and if you see your headlamps dim briefly when you first start the wipers.

Things to do:

- completely discharge your battery overnight by wiring a headlamp bulb across it, and then re-charge it fully. Do it a few times over a month.
- top up your battery fluid before and after charging.
- check your charge circuit and fan belt tension to make sure the alternator is being driven correctly.
- clean battery contacts and grease them with vaseline.
- take off the wiper arms, unbolt the wiper motor and withdraw the rack cable with the motor. Careful you don't kink it, and make sure you unplug the power connector first. Clean the rack with white spirit and a rag. Regrease it with CoppaSlip or low-temperature grease.
- rotate the wiper axles to check they are free moving: if they're not, short of removal and a complete clean up there's little you can do. If you can dismantle them, clean and re-grease them. Alternatively, spray a bucket load of WD40 into them any way you can.
- re-assemble the rack by re-inserting the cable and wiping off the excess grease: re-connect power and check the axles rotate. If OK, replace the wiper arms.

- completely discharge your battery overnight by wiring a headlamp bulb across it, and then re-charge it fully. Do it a few times over a month.

Ummm... Rob? Are you sure about this one?

I have always taken it as gospel truth that deep-cycling a lead-acid battery was one of the many Really Bad Things (tm) you could do to it.

Can you explain to me what this will do and why it won't cause sulfation of the battery plates?

tanstaafl.

I have always taken it as gospel truth that deep-cycling a lead-acid battery was one of the many Really Bad Things (tm) you could do to it.

Ditto, at least WRT repeated deep discharge of a non-deep-cycle starting battery. If trying to improve battery performance by removing sulfation, then the routine approach I'm familiar with is governed "equalization" overcharging. Some techniques I see recommended include discharge, but not below 50 percent. So-called "smart" chargers and regulators include equalization among their phases, but not the typical automotive alternator/regulator setup AFAIK.

I have 4 big batteries under my protection, so I stand ready to learn new tricks!