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Is there a benefit to replacing a Mk2 encoder with a Mk2 encoder or would it be better to go for the Mk2a?

As Mark just said, the encoders have two different mounting systems (2=Surface 2A=Through), so the repair job is easiest if you replace like-for-like.

Also worth noting: The shaft of the encoder is shaped differently for the 2A unit, and unless you have an extra 2A knob lying around, you're not going to be able to fit your 2 knob onto the 2A shaft properly.

That said, if you've got an extra 2A knob, and you're willing to take a few serious risks in the procedure, it is *possible* to fit a 2A encoder onto a 2 displayboard. I've done it.

It involves carefully trimming the pins on the 2A encoder, then soldering it onto the surface-mount pads on the 2 displayboard. Then desoldering it and doing it all over again because without the through-holes to align it, you can't get it straight and in the correct position. Repeat until it's straight and in the correct position, each time risking damage to the displayboard or the VFD.

The benefit in the end is:

- 2A knob is keyed and less fiddly, so there's no chance the knob will slip on the encoder shaft.

- 2A encoder has a different feel in terms of rotation. It is stiffer and more solid in its operation, and does not make an audible clicking noise when you turn it.

- 2A encoder has a different feel in terms of knob-press-button. It requires a harder and more deliberate press to push the button. This reduces the chance that you'll accidentally press the knob when you were just reaching up to turn down the volume. I used to do that all the time with the 2, and it hasn't happened to me since I put the 2A encoder on.

The only disadvantage I can see (other than the difficulty and risk in fitting the part) is the keyed shaft shape is visible through a translucent backlit knob, so it looks asymmetrical.
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Tony Fabris