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Does anyone know of reliable info on training for rock climbing?


Most agree that the best exercise to improve your rock climbing is rock climbing. Get a membership at the gym so you feel like you have to go, and just suck it up. Climb what you can, and just do laps - downclimbing routes instead of being lowered also helps build endurance. I was really weak last year when I took a year off because of an injury, but going to the gym and just getting outside to climb helped tremendously. Other things that help:

Home climbing wall
Training board (like a Metolius Simulator)
Pull-ups
Squats (for leg strength, you could also run stairs with a loaded pack)
Slacklining (for core strength)
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Mark Cushman