I noticed some anomolies today when I drove around enough to give it a good test... looks like I forgot to compensate for the resistance of the rotary joint. Oops. Well I had measured it to be <5 Ohms, but apparently failed to realize that this can peak much higher when rotated. So, I had to pull it out and scale some resitors up a bit, a chance to take the attached (blurry) pic.

Tony, I have vol+, track inc, and vol- as the default three buttons. I will soon add a fourth button (all of the circuitry required is there) when I find a good switch for the application. This will allow me to select another bank of three buttons which I have wired to menu (*), track dec, and OK. I think this will be a good choice in practice, as all I generally do is thumb through the menu, pic a playlist, and skip the tracks I don't feel like listening too. Now I can do it all from the wheel.

And yes, I pull the remote wire from the factory stereo harness. This gives me the rotary joint connection to the wheel buttons, and I replaced the factory resistor values as well. In the pic you can see the green remote wire, the fused ACC wire, and gnd. In the back by the volume knob you can see a thicker black wire which was used to remote mount the IR LED as well. The card from the Kenwood can almost be seen mounted to the back of the card I did.


#080000512 green 12GB