It's strange that you need to do all that when you start your car. I don't understand it. But it sounds like you're doing all of this because of a problem with the alarm, not the Empeg, right?

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Partailly. If I get in the car and just try to fire her up without waiting for the empeg to boot then about 50% of the time the unit will be totally dead once the car is running requiring me to partially pull it from the sled, wait a few seconds and then re-insert. If my alarm as immobilised it requires me to either rearm disarm completely or just to press the button on the fob when the ignition is at position 3. If I have just got into the car and this happens, it means that I have to momentarily pause at ignition position 3 before actually starting the car (key fob pressing time). This pause means that I can actually see the empeg booting and I'm loathe to interrupt. Even then, I can't guarantee I'll have empeg power after I've started the car. It gets even more fun when I want to drop the hood. I can only do this with the ignition in position 2 so I have to try and beat the 30 second delay on the alarm. If I've been driving and I decide to lower the hood it means powering off the empeg, switching off the engine, dropping the hood and restarting. Again, I have to keep my fingers crossed that I'll have power to the empeg once the engine is running again. I've looked into changing the hood option so that I can raise and lower it when the engine is running (seems to be an easy thing to do but I'm waiting for when I get the tuner and do it all at once). In these instances, I can still get the negative spike problem and once I even got a full reset - dimmer settings off, volume right down, new playlist of everthing all in sequence order, etc...

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Steve - 18GB Mk II Blue