Xcode+Fullscreen+Spaces "3 fingered swipe" is brilliant, makes Xcode usable on a laptop.
Simulator to the left, Xcode in the middle and documentation to the right.
If only they'd make the iOS simulator work with the trackpad for scrolling....
I actually like the reverse scrolling, only takes a couple of hours to get used to.
I don't have a problem with the disappearing scrollbars either, maybe I've just become used to using the iPhone & iPad that it seems natural on the Mac.
Found a bug, if you launch safari and three finger swipe to dashboard but keep your fingers held down, by pressing other keys (escape/volume) you can get safari stuck in the dashboard!