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...Also just because i have not posted much on THIS site doesnt mean that i dont know anything.


Yeah, but what little you have posted doesn't prove that you know anything either.

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All: i think what i put in my previous post pretty much finilised the conversation,


LOL. I haven't even started in the conversation yet and you're telling me I'm done? Who do you think you are?

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and i dont know why people are still posting about wether they agree or not with the theory on a "i just disagree, and cannot be bothered to actually see if it works or not" basis.


Because your theory is _CRAP_.

The only thing that you can tell about an amp from the fuse rating is how much current will flow before the fuse blows. And yes, occassionally this can be useful. For instance, when you see that a wonderfully spec'd chinese amp claiming 1000W output only has a 20A fuse, you know that the most use that you're going to get from the specification sheet is if you use it to wipe your arse. But that still doesn't tell you anything about the amp itself. You don't know what (if any) margin has been allocated before the fuse blows.

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And no its not as inaccurate as you would think because of the electrical systems in cars, the voltage is pretty much constant with little variation. Because of this the fuses are resonably accurate, and also manufacturers use as small as fuses as they think they can get away with because saving 1 cent on a fuse for each amp when they make ten of thousands of amps each year is a lot of money.


No, the voltage at the battery is anything but 'pretty much constant with little variation'. A car's electrical system is inherently very dirty. That is why alternator whine and ground loop noise are such big issues. But moving on from this consider the following two facts;

1.) Car audio manufacturers are well aware that people look at fuse ratings to debunk over-rated specifications and are not above abusing this, especially considering;
2.) It doesn't matter if I want 1A, 2A, 3A, 5A, 7.5A, 10A, 15A, 20A, 25A, 30A or 40A fuses. They all cost $0.195 in 10k quantities.

A better indicator is weight. You cannot build a powerful car amplifier without a decent PSU. Decent PSUs need decent heatsinks or they rapidly become dead PSUs. Decent heatsinks aren't light. Furthermore, a class AB design amp (which most are) requires heatsinking because it is inherently inefficient. The more powerful the amp, the bigger and heavier the heatsink required.

Even this is flawed though - some manufacturers make amps that you could fry your breakfast on, whilst other manufacturers' amps barely get warm. And a class D amplifier doesn't play by the same efficiency rules either. (You won't see a pure class B amp, and you're very unlikely to be using a class A amp).
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