I hope you dont mind some suggestions. Well, even if you do, you have to expect them if you're going to post. :)

I believe that probably the primary goal in designing a new fascia with mass appeal is to overcome problems with the stock one. I think it's fair to say most people will agree with this? For a start it might be a good idea to actually list the problems people have had with the stock MK2 part.

Next come some goals that should be present whenever designing anything (not just re-designing). Form and function for intended application.

With these things in mind, I see you have already tuned your model to overcome the problem of screen obstruction for left-handed drivers. However, there's a bit of "extreme" applied to the left side of your face that really kills the form. For a design that looks like it is trying a simplified or minimalist approach, the left opening is a little too fancy. It would look and probably function better if it were a rounder edge and not wavy.

For simplicity in pure form, take a look at Darkstorm's pages showing his custom fascia for the MK1.

Next up is that even though you're trying to design something new to overcome problems, you're getting saddled by carrying forward limitation imposed not by the fixed layout of the player, but by external items. Namely the cap bolts that are used with the stock fascia.

If you were to source some screws with the same thread you would have a lot more options for design. You could find various lengths for the thread as well as thin and flat heads (using whatever type of driver, philips probably the easiest to find). You could then make the fascia a lot thinner which would aid tremendously in the amount of screen you could see from an angle. In making the plate thinner, you would also make the inside of the holes for the screws less deep.

This would avoid repeating a design element of the stock fascia that I am assuming was deliberate - the extruded and highlighted bolt patterns. Again, allowing you far more freedom in your own design.

These steps are are able to achieve even more freedom because of your choice to abandon the stock buttons. And this is a catch-22 in your favour. You now also have more freedom with the buttons because of the alterations to the fascia.

At some point I think I'd like to tackle doing a few layouts (I have a few ideas already). Unfortunately I don't have the time to model them in 3D. The best I can do is provide the artwork in postscript for someone else to extrude. I'd also have to take my own measurements by hand, so even though I may take all the care in the world, fine adjustments would always need to be made. Again, my goals would be as above, while also making the look fit very well with other modern (but not gawdy) head units.

Same goes for buttons. I have some interesting ideas for transparent, solid and combination buttons. I need to do more research into the casting requirements though. FOr lighting, my immediate thought would be to use surface-mounted white LEDs and then provide small coloured tabs in the buttons for modifying color. A small pcb ring with 4 LEDs to go around the rotary knob would take care of that side too.

My first project is going to be designing a rubberized exoskeleton though. A shock protector and something that will allow you to put the empeg on a countertop FLAT. Without the handle banging. Right now it always seems like a very delicate proposition to put it down. This would not eliminate the requirement for a carry bag for utmost protection, but it would protect the entire unit against bumps and bruises. Will start looking into casting steps soon (will more than likely be RTV for anything I produce myself).

Bruno