A solution to a temporary problem is required. What I'm looking for is a specific answer, if anyone cares to help.

Currently my CD receiver and empeg share the same power line by use of a T-Harness. This harness was designed specifically to keep keyless entry (which is inside the factory radio) after an aftermarket head unit has been installed.

Anyway, because they share the same line, when I turn up the volume on the CD player, the empeg no longer receives enough voltage (battery icon). I would like to be rid of this CD player, but I won't be able to afford an external amp for a little while.

So, would someone please tell me specifically what gauge wire I should use to wire the empeg's constant power (yellow) directly to the battery, and what size in-line fuse I should use on that wire?

I'd probably go with 12 or 13 gauge wire, fused with a 5A fuse close to the battery.

/Michael

Thanks.

This may sound a little silly, but - IIRC isn't the empeg fused on that wire near the chassis? If so, take a look at what rating it has on it. I'd put another one of the same amount next to the battery on the new wire, whatever that happens to be. And for the wire, "about the same or a hair bigger" than the current lead should do it.

I know, real vague, but if nothing else it could give you a warm fuzzy about what you use.

The empeg has, I believe, a 3A fuse in-line. I'm not sure about the size of the wire; haven't gone back in and dug it out of the dash yet. I only want to do this because the current setup isn't cutting it, and I want to make sure this kind of thing doesn't happen again.

Basically I was looking for some ideas on how to go about it. Whatever sounds best to me is what I'll use. Thanks for the input.

Thinking about it, there are essentially two strategies to dimensioning the fuse by the battery;

* Fuse to protect the wire - ie just to make sure it doesn't turn into a glowing red hot wire that sets the interior on fire... Fuse size is determined by wire gauge (and possibly whether it's run in open air or "embedded" behind panelling, in wire bundle or under carpet). Requires additional fusing by/in the products supplied by the wire. No problem hooking up more gear to the wire, as long as you're still below max ampere capacity of the wire.

* Fuse to protect the gear powered by the wire directly. In this case I would actually consider putting a 3 amp fuse by the battery and increase the fuse size in the fuse holder on the wire harness... Much easier to change a fuse by the battery than having to rip out the cage to get to it... Can only supply one product, additional gear requires new wire run.

/Michael

Well then, my problem must have been that I was over the max ampere raiting of the constant line coming out of the dashboard, obviously.

I have run a 12 gauge wire straight to the battery, with an automitive in-line fuse holder close to the battery holding a 3A fuse. So far, no problems. Unit powers up and plays normally. Extended play will be the final test.

Thanks for all your help, everyone.

with an automitive in-line fuse holder close to the battery holding a 3A fuse.

Just a note... Fuse holders in the car's engine compartment should be weatherproof.

It is. A friend of mine reminded me yesterday, and I kept that in mind when I bought it this morning. Thanks again.

Cool. Glad to hear it.

Since I'm running amplifiers off of the same wire that goes to the battery, mine is quite heavy-duty, both in terms of the wiring and in terms of the fuse/fuse-holder assembly. You're not, so it's no big deal, it doesn't need to be heavy stuff for you.

I will need it eventually. I have already purchased what I need to hook up my chosen amplifier. I just haven't bought the amp itself yet. Other expenses have gotten in the way.

I'm very happy with the speakers I have, so at first it will just be a 4 channel amp for more power. But if I decide it needs it... there may be a second for a sub. We'll see.

But for now, the empeg is nice and happy and has all the power it needs.