maybe a patch? Something to fix that and the scanning problem in tuner mode would rock...

The knob is handled almost completely in kernel space (eg. Hijack), so if anyone out there would like to redo the code for it, source is available to us all!

Cheers

That would be awsome! As well as saving quite a few of us from replacing our knobs.

The knob is handled almost completely in kernel space (eg. Hijack)

If that's the case then why does the Hijack menu respond to turning the knob so much better than the the volume control, menus etc?

It would appear there is some other extra debouncing in the player software though. I remember seeing something about the knob being debounced in player software before I even got my empeg. Or am I making this up?

Good question, Shonky. I personally don't notice the knob behaving any differently in the player software than in the Hijack menu, though, can you describe the differences you notice?

I had another "experience" with the volume knob yesterday that I wanted to share and wondered if anyone else had seen the same thing.

- I was trying to turn the volume from about -30 up to -10.

- I turned the knob quickly, to reach into the teens.

- As I got closer to my goal of -10, I slowed my rate of turn.

- At -10.50, I slowed my rate of turn so that I was carefully and gently trying to get that "one last click" to get it to -10.00.

- As that last click was happening, it shot past -10, all the way up to 0db and I was blasted.

Here's another question...

Recently, I started having trouble with the analog joystick on one of the Nintendo Gamecube controllers. Not wanting to buy another one, I dismantled the controller, desoldered the analog X/Y potentiometer assembly, dismantled the troubled potentiometer, cleaned it carefully with isopropyl alcohol, reassembled, and resoldered. The joystick works like it was brand new again.

Does anyone know what the innards of the empeg's rotary encoder are like? Is it possible that it would benefit from a similar procedure?

My Empeg does this all of the time. I have noticed the same behaviour in Hijack (modifying left right delay)

Does anyone know what the innards of the empeg's rotary encoder are like? Is it possible that it would benefit from a similar procedure

I haven't looked, but I'd have to wonder whether it's worth it. Every time you de-/re- solder the encoder you are risking potential damage to the display board. I'd hate to go through the motions only to discover that my cleaning wasn't good enough and that I had to replace it anyway. For $10 it's probably worth just replacing it to start with. If it were a $40 part then it'd be a different matter. If it is possible to easily dismantle the encoder without desoldering it first (doubtful), then perhaps it's worth a shot.

Mike has debounce software in there, and it does work reasonably well. My knob has also got worse and worse over time. The shaft has become quite sloppy in the housing and you can change its behaviour by adding a little sideways pressure to the knob/shaft (I have a mk 2, not a 2a). I have an originaly replacement pot., but I am considering fitting a mk 2a unit as the quality is supposed to be much better. The only problem there is that the original is surface mount and the mk 2a unit is thru hole. In my case software is no use at all, it is definitely a hardware problem, and I think some of you may be starting to see the same problem too.

Cheers
Derek

Does anyone know what the innards of the empeg's rotary encoder are like?

Not sure about the players exact makeup, but plan to soon for mine is getting very erratic as well. Most are either a metal slider contacting a graphite base or all metal contacts with some grease. From what I've noticed taking things apart over the years is a paste is formed between the contacts and your alcohol removed this. The noise comes from signal making small arcs from searching for a contact path.

Derek and Jwickis, thanks for this information. It's very enlightenting.