Hmmm, if I'm right, it might take 5 posts to post 5 files. We'll see. These are mostly for SE_Sport_Driver, showing those DIN brackets.

Pic WRX-Empeg1.JPG: straight-on shot showing Empeg cage below Kenwood. You can see the 6 screw holes that secure the 2 brackets, although I only have 1 screw in place righ now (doesn't take much to hold it together since it is so tight, and I already lost 1 screw in the bowels of the console) I used a piece of that black ABS I got from Crutchfield to separate the sled/cage from the heater control mechanicals -- they were pretty exposed from above and I was afraid a stray RCA cable might jam my defroster!

WRX-Empeg2: more of a right side view that shows a bit of the bracket. If you shint real hard you can see the nylock nut that secures the Empeg sled to the bracket. There is plenty of clearance for these backing nuts when you slid the whole deal back in.

WRX-Empeg3: A pic of the hacked and Dremeled bezel. Time consuming.

WRX-Empeg4: A pic with Kenwood and a temporary blanking box made out of thet black ABS sheet. I'm making another one that will be a "pocket" with rounder, nicer corners which won't stick out so much.

WRX-Empeg5: Kenwood + Empeg. FWIW, this pic was taken on a moderately sunny day with the car in the shade of a big tree. If I re-do this install, I will probably put the Empeg on top as it probably won't jut out as much.

Jim

Pic #2

Pic 3

Pic 4

Pic 5

Nice install porn, thanks!

Question: Why didn't you put the Empeg in the upper bay? It looks like less trimming would have been needed if the two devices had traded places?

___________
Tony Fabris

I was thinking exactly the same, it looks like it would fit better. Also, one of the pics gives the impression like the empeg is placed a little forward, or it is just the pic? That could have been solved on the upper bay. Or maybe there's some reason like there's not gonna be enough space up there for the Tuner module, maybe?

Since the Kenwood is always there I thought that (and still think that), all other things being equal, I'd like it on top. Once I got into it, though, I came to the same conclusion that both of you did re: Empeg would sit better in the wider space up top -- project less noticably. This will take some work. It was an incredibly tight fit. Yes, the frame of the Kenwood sits a bit behind the lip of the Empeg sled because it is the only way it would fit. However, in version 2, I may be able to fix the space problem by about 1/4" -- just enough -- by cutting the brackets. It's not visible in the pics, but the brackets each have a lip at the top that is intended to support/align the top of the factory head unit. By grinding these off and cutting into a plastic support brace inside the dash, I can raise the top unit up a bit, make it use more of the top of the bezel, and make the pair more flush.

A new bezel is $85, so before I embark on V2.0, I'm going to noodle this for a while. I may experiment with mixing some touch-up paint and try it out on the V1 bezel so I could gently paint the cut surfaces of V2. I may also reinforce the back sides of the new bezel with urethane or epoxy before I start cutting, too, so there's actually some rigidity in the piece when I'm done. I may also wait to get my hands on a tuner module (yes I'd conceivably stuff one in the car just to get automagic "personality" -- Eq settings, etc.)

In V2, I will also probably go ahead with the idea of welding nylock nuts to the brackets so that I could insert and secure the sled *after* replacing the bezel. This will take a lot of fit, but the lips of the sled would then cover some of the cut edges.

It may not be obvious from pic #5, but if I do raise the top (Empeg in V2) unit by about 1/4", I'll be cutting most of the painted, angled surface at the top of the bezel away, so I'd like to figure out how I'm going to paint/repair it before I start. Part of me is thinking I'll come up with a new paint color -- a slightly blue-tinted silver -- and paint all the silver bits to match rather than try to match the factory paint. I also thought of making a urethane casting of a vargin bezel and cutting/painting that instead. These are all jobs probably better left to a professional, but I'm on a budget!

Jim

Edited by jimhogan on 15/07/01 10:25 AM.

I came to the same conclusion...: Empeg would sit better in the wider space up top

There is a problem with that, but it is so trivial I hesitate to mention it. I bring it up only for you to keep in the back of your mind.

When the empeg is in the top slot of a tight double-din installation and both units are flush with the dash, it is difficult to grab hold of the release handle of the empeg to pull it out of the dash. If you have a good fingernail on your right index finger, it is not so bad, but otherwise you will struggle.

Like I said, trivial, and about the only disadvantage I can think of to putting the empeg up top.

tanstaafl.



"There Ain't No Such Thing As A Free Lunch"

Thanks for the pictures. I think it looks lovely. The time you spent really shows. I wish my Forrester bezel trim job were as nice! Great job.

-Zeke

just say you weren't paying much attention...

Thanks Tim! You rock! I want my WRX!!

By keeping the empeg on the bottom would you get less glare from the sun?

nice Shift knob btw :)

32GB (JUST UPGRADED!) Mk. II BLUE
Detroit, MI USA
www.PfeifferBeer.com

Thanks, SE,

I'm not sure that upper/lower position will matter that much, visibility-wise. Just be glad the WRX comes with green dash lighting. I hope that green will provide the fix, visibility-wise. If the WRX had red or amber dash lighting, I'd get the windows tinted. Period. The red/amber issue is an old, acknowledged issue.

For anybody (maybe you) installing *just* the Empeg with tuner module, this will be less trying. When I ordered the Kenwood, Crutchfield sent me a generic black plastic 1-DIN pocket that would have done a nice job of filling the gap. You'll still have to cut the bezel, though. Consider having somebody weld nylocks to the mounting brackets so you can install the sled last -- that way its lips could help hide your sins, cutting-wise. I don't commute to work at present and didn't want to unplug the Empeg from home for every trip to the store, thus the Kenwood and the overly crammed install. I'm pretty sure that I will get another bezel and redo it with Empeg on top.

WRX digression. I drove my first TSD rally Friday evening through Bellevue, Issaquah and Maple Valley, WA. The car was a blast -- completely PnP (Point 'n Press). I was *way* late turning in on a couple of hard-to-see 90 degree turns. The car just compressed down on the outboard springs then headed off in the right direction. Yes, Mardibloke, there are 3 or 4 curved roads left in my state, Ike notwithstanding.

Jim

Tim,

I currently have the blue empeg and was thinking of getting blue indiglo gauges and indiglo boost gauge, exhaust temp gauge and put them in the extra slot.....

the saga continues and I don't even have the car yet!

32GB (JUST UPGRADED!) Mk. II BLUE
Detroit, MI USA
www.PfeifferBeer.com

Tim...

How does the sled connect to the brakets? Do you need to welt nuts on to the sled? I may not have a resource for that... off hand, can you think of any alternatives? Thanks a ton!

Note: I saw your post on the alarm pager - kick ass!

32GB (JUST UPGRADED!) Mk. II BLUE
Detroit, MI USA
www.PfeifferBeer.com

I can't speak for the WRX install, but on my installation, I drilled holes in the sides of the sled and used low-clearance bolts to connect to the frame.

___________
Tony Fabris

SE,

After initial alignment, I used a Sharpie to mark the points at which both the sled and the Kenwood lined up with the Subaru brackets. Then I pulled the sled, Kenwood and brackets into the kitchen, aligned the pieces, made some more marks, and started drilling. None of the original holes were in the correct position, so I drilled new holes for the OEM screws to hold the Kenwood. Then I drilled throught bracket/sled on each side, a hole large enough for a flat head #8 machine screw. This screw goes in through the inside of the sled and is secured by a nylock nut on the outside of the Subaru brackets. With this done, I just replaced the whole bracket/Kenwood/sled assembly back in the car.

No, you don't need to weld anything in this scenario. However, doing it the way I did required that you cut the bezel enough to fit around the lips of the sled. When I redo it, I want to make it so that the sled can go in *after* the bezel snaps in place so that the hole cut in the bezel can be smaller and neater. This will require fixing those nylocks to the brackets so that I can insert sled at the very end then reach in and thread the machine screws to hold the sled. Welding would do the trick (but you'd need to get stainless nylocks from someplace like West Marine and there's a chance the tack welding could melt the nylon); another option is something like Devcon Metal Welder (supposed to work on stainless) or even JB Weld, a couple of "metal epoxies"; I'm going to try the Devcon.

Other advice?:

I was going to put 2 securing nuts on each side of the sled, but 1 seems to do the trick given how tightly it fits in a 2 head unit install. If I used #6 flat head machine screws, they would project even less into the interior of the sled, but would be harder to thread and drive. I'll stick with #8, but may try to bevel the sled holes a bit more so they project less.

I cut a small square of that Ctrutchfield-supplied ABS sheet and put it over the heater controls (under the sled) to keep stereo wires from fouling heater and vice versa.

Take your time drilling stainless!

Jim

Jim,

Could you post a pic of the install with the empeg removed and no cover on? (ie, the bezel in place, and the empty sled) I feel bad hitting you up for advice for about a month now!

32GB (JUST UPGRADED!) Mk. II BLUE
Detroit, MI USA
www.PfeifferBeer.com

Instead of screws and nylocs, you could have used pop rivets, which protrude less from the installation.

Andrew is going to be posting info on how we did this for a ZX install recently, in almost the same manner you describe. This does give a very rigid structure to the cage, and is semi-permanent: however, the rivets are Aluminium and can easily be drilled out later if neccessary.

One of the few remaining Mk1 owners... #00015

This does give a very rigid structure to the cage, and is semi-permanent: however, the rivets are Aluminium and can easily be drilled out later if neccessary.

I have a personal preference in this area: I try to do my stereo installations in such a way that I can remove it all with a screwdriver in a parking lot if necessary. Not necessarily quickly mind you (don't need to make it easy for thieves), but I don't want my installations to require special tools.

Reason: My car purchases all seem to be impulse-buys. I don't necessarily know ahead of time whether I'll be trading in my current ride. The last time I bought a car, I had to de-install the empeg, speakers, amps, and subwoofer from the original vehicle in the dealership parking lot so I could trade it in.

___________
Tony Fabris

I just found out that my DIN pocket adapter will not arrive until next week... there goes my idea of completeing an install this weekend.... I think I will still start it, and just go radioless for the start of next week....

Wishlist for Mk. III: ISO DIN chasis..... :P

32GB (JUST UPGRADED!) Mk. II BLUE
Detroit, MI USA
www.PfeifferBeer.com

SE, as long as I had the camera out, I snapped a pic of my almost finished subwoofer (need to dress/finish the cabling). This is fit in the sport wagon version, but you could do the same in the sedan. It's a home-made cabinet made of MDF and polyester resin containing a Kicker Solobaric 8". One reason I did it this way was to find a place to mount the amp that is out of the way -- leave the storage space in back of the wagon as clear as possible. This is more of an issue for wagonistas I suppose and you have more spots to hang amps in the sedan.

Jim

A second pic from a slightly different angle...

Jim

For SE_Sport_Driver,

I attached a few pics of the sled. You should be able to see in the pics where I had to cut the opening a bit larger than the sled. Sounds like you are putting a blank pocket in with the Empeg. The pocket I got from Crutchfield is not quite as tall as the Empeg and you should be able to mount it flush with the bezel, so you should be able to get by with much less cutting (just cut out 2 sides for the sled, but no need to cut top or bottom). If you can put the sled in after the bezel and are putting it in the top spot, it should hide the cut edges quite well.

Soooooo.....not sure how relevant my install is. I'm pretty committed to the 2 HU install. When I redo it I will have the joy of doing all that cutting again and will be cutting upwards even more into the bezel (and into some of the dash innards) to raise the Empeg enoush so that the Kenwood sits flush with it, not stuck behind the lip of the sled.

Jim

Schofiel: "Instead of screws and nylocs, you could have used pop rivets, which protrude less from the installation."

I considered pop rivets (I've used some on the boat, so I have the materials/tools lying about) but I decided against it for this application. First is Tony's reason: make it easy to pull things apart as needed (to install tuners, particle beam weapons, etc. or for troubleshooting). Second was based on the particulars of the WRX install. When I do install it "sled last" with the bezel already in place, the only way to remove the sled if installed with rivets would be to drill the rivets out from inside the sled. Not fun. None of my drills would fit, so it would mean grinding it off with a Dremel extension wand. Blech.

The stereo is installed with an OEM harness adapter and that is connected to Kenwood/Empeg with a bunch of hooded spade connectors. It meant a lot of crimping, and could be considered inferior to soldering in some respects, but it means I could slap the factory HU back in the car in 15-20 minutes if needed.

Jim

Odd question here. Does your Amp have a seperate connection for your subwoofer? If not, how did you wire it to the amp? I have a 4 channel amp now and I want to add a sub-woofer to the system but I am not really sure on the best way to wire it to the amp. Right now, all 4 speaker out-puts are going to the 4 speakers installed in the car and I have no other out for a subwoofer. Ideas? Suggestions?

Greg

Greg: "Does your Amp have a seperate connection for your subwoofer? If not, how did you wire it to the amp? I have a 4 channel amp now and I want to add a sub-woofer to the system but I am not really sure on the best way to wire it to the amp..."

Greg,

In this particular case, you are looking at a cheap-but-serviceable ($79 from Crutchfield) Profile amp that is a "2+1". It takes the front line-level outputs from the Kenwood and feeds both the front speakers and the subwoofer; it has high/low-pass filters and gain controls for each "side". My rear door speakers are fed from the speaker-level rear outputs of the Kenwood. It seems like 2+1 and 4+1 amps like this are less common lately since manufacturers seems to think people are willing to stuff their trunks with separate amps for subwoofer, front, rear...

Since you already have a 4-channel amp, one easy solution would be to use "Y" connectors to feed your front line-level outputs into a powered subwoofer like an Infinity Basslink. There are lots of other ways to do this with more hardware, external crossovers, more amps, etc., but somethink like the Infinity seems like it would be the simplest thing you could do given your current setup.

Jim