I need more trunkspace, so i'm getting rid of the two 10" JL subs in sealed enclosure in my trunk, and getting a single 10" in a sealed smaller box. SO....

I need a little help. I either want a JL 10W3 or 10W6. I've got an MTX 302 which i want to bridge to one channel which will result in 300 Watts bridged into a 4 Ohm load.

K... sooo... here's where the whole watts/ohms thing gets the better of me (excuse my car audio newbieness in this matter).

The 10W3 has Continuous Power Handling of 250 Watts and comes in Dual 2 ohm, Dual 4 ohm or Dual 6 ohm models.

The 10W6 has Continuous Power Handling of 300 Watts and is Dual 6 ohm.

So am i just retarded in thinking the 10w6 would work? I'm guessing i'm gonna have to get the Dual 2 Ohm 10W3... correct? Does dual 2 Ohm = 4 Ohm loads? Help the moron!

If my last assumption is correct... then i shold probably pick up this box... no?

Yes, a dual 2 ohm if wired in series equals 4 ohms. Of these two choices, the 10w3 would work best for you. A dual 6 ohm if wired in parallel is equal to 3 ohms and your amp is only stable down to 4 ohms, so this is too low. The only way the 10w6 would work with your amp is if you didn't bridge it and used 2 channels to power the 2 voice coils. You would lose a lot of power by doing it this way though so this isn't a very good option.

Are you stuck on JL. I have an infinity perfect 10 and it is the best sound quality sub I have ever heard. It is extremely tight sounding and punchy. And it will also get loud if you want it to. I got it new off of ebay for about 130 and love it. They have a single 4 ohm coil and would work great with your amp. I promise you wouldn't be dissapointed if you got one.

The 10W3 has Continuous Power Handling of 250 Watts and comes in Dual 2 ohm, Dual 4 ohm or Dual 6 ohm models.

The 10W6 has Continuous Power Handling of 300 Watts and is Dual 6 ohm.

So am i just retarded in thinking the 10w6 would work? I'm guessing i'm gonna have to get the Dual 2 Ohm 10W3... correct? Does dual 2 Ohm = 4 Ohm loads? Help the moron!

A dual 6 Ohm can be configured as a 3 Ohm or 12 Ohm load. A 3 Ohm load is less than the amp is spec'ed, but might work - or the amp might overheat...

A dual 2 Ohm is what you want - connect a short piece of speaker cable from the positive terminal of one voice coil to the negative terminal of the other coil (coils in series, 2+2=4). Connect remaining speaker terminals to the proper terminals on the amp.

/Michael

Okay, think i've got it. Thanks for the info guys.

I'm not totally stuck on JL's, just that i've always used them and have been incredibly happy with 'em. I've looked at the Infinity's (which look incredible visually by the way) and those would be my second choice. I think i'm just gonna go with the 10w3 box though, as it's ready to roll, and comes from JL with the perfect sized box.

Thanks again guys. Any other comments??

That should work great for you, the 10W3 dual 2 wired in series.

But - if it was me, I like to screw with stuff and see what I can get away with. I'd try the dual 6 and throw a 3 ohm load to the amp. MTX is known to be pretty rugged, and I'm willing to bet it would take it. Of course if it didn't, you'd be forced into a new speaker or amp. You could contact MTX directly and ask... Historically they're good about replying.

You're looking for space apparently, so perhaps a single 12" is out. But if you're used to getting a lot of volume out of the 2-10's, you may be wishing to at least have a 12" single. I've had JL in the past, and I also really liked them. Stick with what you know I guess. To throw another option - I currently have a pair of Boston Acoustics 10" Pro's in my spare tire well, they only need .5 ft^3 each, so that could be an option for a sub too.

I do like the 10W3 dual 2 JL though, already in a box and everything. There's absolutely no reason not to get it that I can see.

Yeah, the thing is, i don't often listen to music that REALLY takes advantage of the subs... i listen to drum n bass occasionally, and hip hop here and there, but mostly i just have the empeg on random on my punk playlist, which is 95% of my collection. So, while i am sorta concerned about not having the same volume as the two 10's as you mentioned, i probably won't miss it. I did consider a 12", but i'd rather the accuracy of a 10" since i'm not booming the music most of the time.

I also seriously considered getting rid of the spare tire and getting one of Sounddomain.com's tire well kits, which is prefabbed for 2 10's and includes an amp rack. Pretty nice, but i'm still sketched out on getting rid of the spare tire. Plus i'm in $ conservation mode, and that would run me around $100 bucks after selling my current box.

Alrighty, i think i'm going with the cs110-w3 enclosure. I found one online for $185 shipped.... sweeeet. I can probably sell my old box for more than that.

Tony, what box do you have in your trunk?

Thanks guys.

Tony, what box do you have in your trunk?

Assuming you mean this Tony...

- Sealed Q-logic hatchback box.
- Polk Audio 10" woofer.
- Jensen 2-channel amp bridged mono, I think it's about 150-200w RMS, I think it's either the XA2100 or 2150, don't remember.

haha, yes, that tony. Thanks... exactly what i was curious about. And you said that thing will rattle your trunk eh?

Scott, my install guy, is trying to talk me into Polk Momo subs.

And you said that thing will rattle your trunk eh?

Yeah, at normal listening volumes, I get some rattles that you can only hear when you're outside the car. I think that says more about the car than the sub, though.

Scott, my install guy, is trying to talk me into Polk Momo subs.

Mine isn't Momo, I didn't even know Momo components were mady by Polk. Perhaps Polk bought out Momo recently or something.

Anyway, the sub I got isn't even listed at Crutchfield any more, perhaps they don't make my model any more. I seem to recall I got it on a closeout sale or something.

I remember now. The woofer was a POLK DX series.

And the connection between Polk and Momo is explained here.

ah... good link. Wow, that is a good looking sub... to bad the back of it would never be seen in my install. So, i ordered the CS110-W3 box from http://www.carstereotime.com for $185+tax, free shipping. They have a "we'll beat anyone by 5%" deal, which is pretty damn nice.

data sheet here : http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/10w6.html
has all the wiring diagrams and wattages / ohms, etc.

If you want to use a really small box, kicker solar barics sound great in small boxes.But they need alot of power to push them.

hey loren if u want to hurry up i can get u a great deal on jl audio subs, before i leave goodguys on the 15th, i can get u them at cost give me a call..

I have a JL 12W6, and I really like it.. I have it connected to a mono 125W channel on my Xtant 403a. running at 3ohms. in a sealed box I purchased from a local audio shop (JL retailer)
it's 1.25 cubic feet.. with a little bit of fill it matches perfectly with my JL.

I also think a single 12 might be a better replacement for the dual 10's. you get a little bit lower in the frequency response, and the JL 12W6 in a sealed box won't loose much acuracy in comparison to the 10's

I also think a single 12 might be a better replacement for the dual 10's.

Hmmm... I've never actually run 12's in my own car, so this may be just me displaying my ignorance. Take it for what it's worth.

In my experience, 12's (compared to 10's) come out sounding rather atonal -- no warmth, no musicality, just "blumph blumph blumph" bass sounds. This is what I've heard in other people's cars with 12's, and I can't vouch for how well the rest of their system was set up.

I have heard one car running 12's that was superb -- a $60,000 installation in a Lexus. He was running home-audio 12's at 8-ohms with tube amplifiers and to my certain knowledge at least three years worth of very serious tuning and tweaking, some of it by highly professional people with nationally-recognized reputations.

Theoretically, two 10's in a common enclosure (running mono, of course) would go lower than a 12, due to acoustic coupling. (The lowest frequency is primarily a function of cone area; two 10's = 157 square inches; one 12 = 113 square inches) and you also keep the advantage of the responsiveness and higher frequency capability of the 10's. In practice this advantage is small enough that there is disagreement about whether it really works.

I'd stick with the 10's... but that's just my opinion.

tanstaafl.

two 10's move more air than one 12.
The box for two 10's is bigger than that for one 12.
However 10's are generally cheaper than 12's
If trunkspace is your issue and you want to have just one sub
you could get one 12w3
or one 10w6. I would go with the 10w6, great sub, punches real good,
and definately sounds better that the one 12w3.

What would you guys think about 2 12W6, and 2 8W3's? That's what I am thinking of doing. The 12's to get the low frequencies, and the 8's to keep precice sounding bass.

If you're gonna do that, then get one 12W7.
Give it LOTS of power.
Can't void warranty unless you supply over 2000 watts RMS at 4ohm.
I heard (a rumor?) that JL hooked the origional prototype of this sub up to 10,000 of clean power at 4ohm and it has been playing some oscilation signal of 20-80HZ since the day it was built and it's still running today.
Wether that's true or not, I heard a car that had just 1 of these and a Rockford Fosgate bd1500 hoowed up to it.... Probably the best sounding bass I've ever heard. Utterly amazing in all respects.
Probably the same money as your 4 sub setup and much more space efficient.
If that's not enough for you,
maybe look at two 10w7's I think they make them.
Quite literally the Ultimate Sub Woofer.
and you'd better have a good sound stage to keep up with them.

I did look at that, I need to go down to the local dealer and give it a listen. I like lots of bass, but I like it clean and precise. Sealed box will be a must. How precise is the 12W7? I have 2 10" Punch's, and they sound good, but I listen to my buddy's system, and it can get better. With that setup I was planning on using crossovers to limit the 12's to aprox. 50Hz, then the 8's from there up to like 120. That way I isolate each sub to keep the everything clean and precise. Now I may be totally wrong on that idea. But if the 12W7 does produce the bass I like, that would be a better option.