Woo hoo!

For those of you who are trying to figure out how to install any kind of new HU into your 2002 VW Golf/Passat/Jetta and the standard one out there doesn't fit, chances are pretty good you will need the new harness from Metra 70-9003. I was only able to find one internet dealer who had them so far... I guess they just started shipping them recently.

Also, as a resource, you may want to check out metra's web site (took FOREVER to find) www.metraonline.com

found here: http://www.logjamelectronics.com/met70gmwirha1.html
price: $14.95
described as: This is the much anticipated harness for the 2002 Double DIN sized VW Radio. This will allow you to replace the VW radio with the aftermarket unit of your choice!
in stock? currently 6

picture attached take from above site - anyone recognise it?

From the pain I can remember working on mafisto's TT, that certainly looks like the right part. We used an Autoleads harness (unknown part number) that was shipped from the UK.

If you have a stock premium Audi system, that certainly looks like your man, from what I remember anyway.

Sorry, I was just excited... I have been looking all over for this silly piece. I ordered the part (thus there are 6 left) and will let you know how it turns out.

Pretty soon I'll have another reason to never want to leave my car.

Ok! I got the harness... it has two memory power leads, a power antenna lead, a ground lead and a dimmer lead. It also has the usual stereo leads.

Here's the question I have. There is no switched ignition power, but that shouldn't be an issue. Do I still need to use the antenna adapter? I won't be using a tuner...

If you've got nothing hooked up to the antenna wire then there's no need for the antenna to be functional, so no need to power the antenna... Right?

/Michael

Ugh... I think I am going to have to take it in someplace and have them solve the block issue... I already mentioned the leads that are in the block, but here's the other issue... I plugged everything in - matched the leads from the sled to the leads on the harness... popped it in and nothing! no power, no nothing...

But then I pulled it out, and noticed odd electrical things happening... i.e., the auto window up wasn't working drivers side... but the real issue was that the alarm didn't turn on. I locked up, the locks shut, no open doors, no beep... finally after about 15 seconds the car honked, and now everything seems to be back to normal.

The leads that the VW has on the stereo do not match the leads for the harness! It is the right shape, but I have no idea what the different VW lead names stand for...

+- B
- B
ALM (Alarm?)
GND
Safe

Oops. Sounds like you've linked up the CAN/Safe/K-wire bus wires to the empeg. Definately not a good idea. I'm not familiar with the newer DD systems, but I know that there are 2 wires on the single DIN harness that IIRC are labelled K-wire and SAFE, which should not be connected to the empeg. (No CAN bus on those)

Did you run into any power problems i.e. blown fuses? I just popped in my player, booted it up, played 2 minutes intoa song and then it died... works fine on AC.

Ok... I looked things over and what you sadi makes sense... although there are 8 positions, it doesn't look like Safe, CAN+ or CAN- have anything to do with anything... there are only 6 connector and only 3 really match up on the harness... the two yellow power leads and the ground lead... I am not convinced that the dimmer line is hooked up either...

When I originally tried the sled, I had only soldered the leads for constant current... I didn't solder any leads for switched current because there weren't any on the harness. I don't know what the point of having a switched lead would be anyway. I ended up soldering the second constant power lead to the switched power lead... so my wiring from the 70-9003 harness to the empeg ISO harness is:

ISO Metra
Green Nothing (No mute)
Orange Yellow (Constant power 2)
Yellow Yellow (Constant power 1)
White Orange (Illumination lead)
Black Black (Ground)
Blue Blue (Antenna power, doesn't seem to be a lead from the car though - empty slot)

There is no antenna attached, as there is no tuner.

The results? a boot-up and 2 minutes later, turns itself off... works fine in AC... so I may have blown a fuse somewhere... I got a LOT of engine whine through the speakers (funny, didn't have any problems getting the Monsoon to respond) when the car is running... When I removed the 3 A fuse from the filter, the whine cut down considerably.

Is the amp rating significantly lower in the switched power line as opposed to the steady current?

I haven't pulled the allen wrench out to see if any internal fuses have blown on the unit... the VW fuses all seem intact.

Man, I feel like a dork!

IIRC, there are two wires that have to be switched... I vaguely remember tracing the wires from the empeg, into the adapter, and then to the stock setup. I *think* two of them had to be switched. We took the adapter and popped the little silver connections out, moved them to the right spots, and pushed them back in. No way I can remember which ones, but we had to move some.

The markings on the stock radio can help ID the wires. I know we got it figured out eventually, but it took a while.

I also know that the only way we got decent sound was via use of a ground loop isolator. We put one on the front, and it solved everything there. The rears sounded bad, but not as much so. Nothing ever ended up in the back.

This was mafisto's TT. Since then the car is being lease-paid by a friend, as he now owns a brand new Celica GTS. (He started thinking long-term and got tired of paying for a car that was never going to belong to him). The stock radio was put back in and the whole problem went away in an instant...

Now we get to put the empeg into the Celica! I'm looking forward to this one, I'm great at installing from scratch, just not leased Audis aparently.

That's interesting... I know that on some older volkswagens the unswitched and switched power leads were reversed... Unfortunately, here there is a more basic problem - two unswitched leads and no switched lead without tapping into the fuse box... Does anyone know the key for the VW fusebox cards? some are obvious but others are a little more confusing.

Ok, I checked the harness carefully last night - leads basically run from +-B, ALM, -B, Safe, Ground

The lead coming off the Safe pin is the second 12v power lead - really not necessary. The first power lead comes off of -B (battery?)

The unused pin connectors are: MUTE, CAN+, CAN-

I understand the CAN Low and CAN High leads are attached to the on-board CPU... so is Safe another one of those computer leads or no?

Also, what does +- B stand for? Is this the switched battery lead that isn't supposed to be there?

As ref, from the back, the pins are:

CAN+ +-B
CAN- ALM
MUTE -B
GND Safe

On Single DIN units, Orange and Yellow are 12V, one is constant, and one switched...I can't remember off the top of my head which was which (VW had them reversed to 'normal'). It's all detailed in a a thread I created in this forum...search on my name. I mention this as you've said you''ve connected white to orange...it's clear from your posts whether the metra harness colors match the vehicle harness colors or not..

It'd seem strange to me that VW would still have a dimmer line, but not switched power.

Howdy again!

I put up two posts elsewhere on this thread with my investigation... on the double-din metra harness, the leads run:

Blue (antenna +) --> +-B
Orange (Illumination) --> ALM
Yellow (12v) --> -B
Yellow (12v) --> Safe
Black --> Ground
No Lead --> CAN+
No Lead --> CAN-
No Lead --> MUTE

That's the scoop... perhaps the orange is in fact switched and I can forgo illumination features?