The black isn't too shiny, plus it has a decent texture. I'm sure it has a lot more to do with variable flash power on the camera however - and the fact that I was a fair distance back when taking the shots. I believe I had the power set down 1.7 stops (Nikon E5700).

I mentioned in another thread that I wished I had had the patience to really document everything, because there just aren't enough BMW audio resources that give detailed images or facts. Case in point is the incorrect wiring diagram I mentioned. Plus a lot of installers run new wires and then complain about noise (duh). Or put new tweeters where the factory ones were and complain about poor imaging (tweeters should be near the mid-woofers and as far from your ears as possible). Putting mine in the door's mid position was a compromise so that I wouldn't have to come up with custom kick panels. Though I did have to fabricate my own little tweeter holder and hot-glue it into the mid pod in the doors. Should have gotten some images of that.

A lot of people also don't know you can open the rear speaker baskets up. I believe it's one of the reasons you'll find that people claim the 3-series fits 4" speakers in the back. Sure, if you bolt the speakers in place directly to the car. If you use the stock baskets (removing the stock speakers), then you can easily fit 5.25" mids or coaxials in the back - without any custom adaptors or fabrication.

I also wanted to document what connectors are present on the factory speakers. The back (whole baske), door tweeters and mids use small 4-pin connectors similar to computer internal audio connectors. The front mid-woofers use standard press-fit connectors (can't remember actual name, some people call them spades, but they're not). So to install aftermarket speakers one may need to replace these press-fits, but the door tweets and mids should be wire-tapped (no need to cut the wires by using a standard wiretap that attaches parallel to the existing wiring). If using the rear baskets, again, standard press-fit connectors are used and they'll plug right into a lot of aftermarket speakers - then you simply re-connect the custom factory connector to its mating plug.

I could have likely done the install without drilling any holes as well, but it would have taken more time and likely not have been as stealth. It would also have required a 4' ground cable and I didn't want to go over 3' (ended up using less than 2' in fact).

I had fun. A lot more fun that connecting up the system in my Integra in 2001. A lot less work too. And I can say with certainty that the imaging is far superior. Can't comment on the SPL until I get the sensitivity adjusted. I had two 8" subs in a small ported enclosure in that system versus the single (and much higher end) 10" in a sealed box now.

Next I'll likely help my brother with some of his install. Same amp in a 2002 Acura TL. Except he has 6" speakers front and back, both sets of the XR series, and two of the same 10w6 woofers in a sealed box. That's going to be LOUD.

Bruno