Quote:
I was able to log in, but when I tried to rename a file, I got a 553 error. I figured I was in as a user without write access to the file, but apparently that’s not the case.

That is, in fact, not the case, as you suggest. It's because the filesystem is mounted read-only. Execute "site rw" from your FTP client. (Actually, execute the remote command "rw" from your FTP client. It's likely that the way to do this is either "site rw" or "quote rw".) Make sure to do a "site ro" when you're done or you'll be in for a big filesystem check when you reboot.

Also, I'm with you on the knob being less than ergonomic.
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Bitt Faulk