I suspect if they were designing it now it would have a web interface.

They probably would have since they have to appeal to neophytes. However, I recenly bought an AP from Micro Plus for $29.95. For that price, I had to check it out. It gets configured through USB (supporting your theory that an AP is set up once and never touched again). The utility is extremely primative but it gets the job done (if you know what you're doing). Incidentally, that AP from Micro Plus has the best range and stability of any AP I have ever used. It is an excellent value.