We've been using HP inkjets at work for a few months now and I have been so impressed with the build and image quality that I have recently replaced my old Canon BJC4550 at home with an HP Deskjet 1220C. This goes up to 13" x 19" so I can print out my A3 CAD drawings. As for running costs - well we haven't been using them for long enough yet to do any calculations so I can't comment. I got an HP 840C for my Mum, recommended a 959C to my sister and bought my girlfriend a 930C. My sister got hers for exactly the same thing you want yours for - that's printing photographs and she's extremely pleased with it. The HPs seem nice and quiet too. Much quieter than the Canons we've had. I've heard good things about Epson photo print quality too. Personally I'd do as you said and look up some Printer group tests and reviews. That's what I usually do when I'm in the market for something. Good luck, I hope you get a printer you're happy with.
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Marcus 32 gig MKII (various colours) & 30gig MKIIa