Yep. Jelly Bean 4.1.1 now running.
Cool!
One nit: the all-in-one toolkit I used fails to re-root the phone once it's running Jelly Bean. Other more detailed recipes also failed.
Then I found
this excellent tutorial for rooting Jelly-Bean from somebody with similar problems.
Why root? Well, I needed it here so I could run
AdFree to kill off the in-app advertising from certain other useful apps. This program updates /etc/hosts, which requires root access to do.
And finally I discovered that "adb" (or adb-linux) is the way to really get into the handset. Useful, that.
Cheers